Friday, November 1, 2013

Pattern: Easy Legwarmers

 

Materials:
  • - worsted weight yarn in four colors
  • fun fur (optional)
  • size K hook
  • scissors
  • yarn needle

Stitches/ Abbreviations Used (American terms):
  • ch - chain
  • slst - slip stitch
  • sc - single crochet
  • hdc - half double crochet
  • fpdc - front post double crochet
  • bpdc - back post double crochet
  • fo - finish off

Notes:
  • repeat everything inside the asterisks (**)
  • I used four colors and one fun fur color but you can use whatever you want. If you don't want to use fun fur, omit the sc rnds and replace them with hdc rnds
  • you can mix up the order of your fun fur rounds and how thick the stripes are

The Pattern:

with color A, make the cuff
ch 31 or any odd number to fit around your calf, slst to join
rnd 1: ch2, hdc around, slst to join
rnds 2-4: ch 2, *fpdc, bpdc* around, slst to join
rnd 5: ch 2, hdc around, slst to join, turn

with color B + fun fur, start the leg
rnd 6: ch 1, sc around, slst to join, turn

with color C
rnds 7-8: ch 2, hdc around, slst to join

with color D
rnds 9-10: ch 2, hdc around, slst to join

with color A
rnds 11-12: ch 2, hdc around, slst to join

repeat rnds 6-10 in the same color sequence

When you have 3 rnds of fun fur, complete the second cuff
ch 1, sc around, slst to join
repeat rnds 2-4
sc around, slst to join

fo and weave in ends

Sunday, March 31, 2013

Tutorial: Crochet Cupcake w/ Square Bottom


This written tutorial is for a cupcake with a square bottom. If anything is unclear, email me at babymarthacrafts@yahoo.com or leave a comment and I'll do my best to help you! I hope you enjoy the tutorial and your finished cupcake. Feel free to sell any cupcakes you make, but please do not sell the pattern itself or claim it as your own. Thanks.

Materials:
  • three colors of yarn: one for the cherry, one for your frosting, and one for your square bottom
  • a crochet hook appropriate for the weight of yarn you're using (I'm using a size G hook and worsted weight yarn)
  • a darning needle for weaving in the ends and sewing the cherry onto the frosting
  • scissors 

Stitches/ Abbreviations Used (American terms): 
  • ch - chain
  • sc - single crochet
  • st/ sts - stitch/ stitches
  • slst - slip stitch
  • BLO - back loop only
  • FL(s) - front loop(s)
  • FO - finish off

Notes:
  • Make a cherry and the frosting as directed in this tutorial

To make the square bottom:

Do the same as you did for the liner in this tutorial, except rather than working in the BLO, you're going to work through both loops. You're also going to omit slst-ing at the end/ beginning of the rows (except for when you're slst-ing into the unworked FLs of the frosting) thus creating a square shape rather than tapering as the liner does.

FO and weave in ends, attach cherry and enjoy your cute little cupcake!

Tutorial: Crochet Cupcake with Liner


This photo tutorial is for a cupcake with a liner instead of exposed cake. If anything is unclear, email me at babymarthacrafts@yahoo.com or leave a comment and I'll do my best to help you! I hope you enjoy the tutorial and your finished cupcake. Feel free to sell any cupcakes you make, but please do not sell the pattern itself or claim it as your own. Thanks.

Materials:
  • three colors of yarn: one for the cherry, one for your frosting, and one for your liner
  • a crochet hook appropriate for the weight of yarn you're using (I'm using a size G hook and worsted weight yarn)
  • a darning needle for weaving in the ends and sewing the cherry onto the frosting
  • scissors 

Stitches/ Abbreviations Used (American terms): 
  • ch - chain
  • sc - single crochet
  • st/ sts - stitch/ stitches
  • slst - slip stitch
  • BLO - back loop only
  • FL(s) - front loop(s)
  • FO - finish off

Notes:
  • Make a cherry and the frosting as directed in this tutorial
  • I normally don't add a stitch count to my patterns, but the liner instructions have one

To make the liner:

with your liner color and the back of your frosting facing you, find your center most 10 FLs, pull up a loop in your first FL, yarn over and pull through the loop, ch 6



row 1: sl st in last ch st, sc in next 5 (1slst and 5sc)

(row 1 continued) slst in next 2 FLs
this is what your cupcake looks like from the back so far
with the back of your cupcake facing you, fold the liner stitches down as shown

row 2: sc in the BLO of the next 5 sc, slst in slst from the previous row, ch 1, turn (5sc and 1slst)



this is what your liner sts should look like so far, 5 sc, 1 slst, and 1 ch

row 3: slst in slst from the previous row, sc in BLO of the next 5 sc, slst in the next 2 FL as you did after row 1 (1slst and 5sc)

repeat rows 2 and 3 until your cupcake liner is centered with your frosting, slst in last FL


FO and weave in ends, attach cherry and enjoy your cute little cupcake!

Tutorial: Crochet Cupcake


This photo tutorial is for a cupcake with a cherry on top. If anything is unclear, email me at babymarthacrafts@yahoo.com or leave a comment and I'll do my best to help you! I hope you enjoy the tutorial and your finished cupcake. Feel free to sell any cupcakes you make, but please do not sell the pattern itself or claim it as your own. Thanks.

Materials:
  • three colors of yarn: one for the cherry, one for your frosting, and one for your cake
  • a crochet hook appropriate for the weight of yarn you're using (I'm using a size G hook and worsted weight yarn)
  • a darning needle for weaving in the ends and sewing the cherry onto the frosting
  • scissors

Stitches/ Abbreviations Used (American terms): 
  • ch - chain
  • sc - single crochet
  • hdc - half double crochet
  • hdc2tog - half double crochet two together
  • dc - double crochet
  • sk - skip
  • st/ sts - stitch/ stitches
  • slst - slip stitch
  • BLO - back loop only
  • FL(s) - front loop(s)
  • FO - finish off

Notes:
  • When you make the frosting, you're going to make a half circle. At the end of each row (or half round I guess) make sure your half circle looks like a half circle and is even at the flat edge
  • I normally don't add a stitch count to my patterns, but the confusing parts like the frosting have one

To make the cherry:


Make a magic ring and sc 6 in the ring, join with a slst to the first sc and pull tail to close the ring. Cut your yarn and weave in your first tail. Set cherry aside.





To make the frosting:



make a slst and ch 3, join with a slst to first ch

row 1: ch 2 and dc 5 in the ch 3 ring, turn




row 2: ch 2, dc in same, 2dc in each, dc in first ch of ch 2 from row 1 to make it flat across the bottom, turn (10)


row 3: ch 2, dc in same, *dc in next, 2dc in next* dc in last and again in first ch of ch 2 from row 2 to make it flat across the bottom, turn (15)

sc 10 across the bottom flat part of your frosting, there's no particular placement, just make sure it's as even as possible, slst in the stitch before the first available dc from the previous row (10)

 for the scallops, you're going to...
in BLO, sk slst, (hdc, 2dc, hdc) in next, sk 1, slst in next, *sk 1, (hdc, 2dc, hdc) in next, sk  1* repeat once more, after you make your last scallop, slst in first available st, FO and weave in ends

this is what your frosting will look like when you're finished

this is a view of the FL sts you skipped when you made the scallops

FO and weave in frosting ends







To make the cake:



with your cake color and the back of your frosting facing you, pull up a loop in your first FL

 yarn over and pull through the loop
row 1: sc in next FL and next 8 (whoops, I missed one so the pictures will show different than what this says for the next few rows), turn (9)
row 2: ch 1, hdc in each across, turn (9)
row 3: ch 1, hdc2tog, hdc in next 4, hdc2tog, turn (7)
row 4: ch 1, hdc in each across, turn (7)
row 5: ch 1, sc in each until last, slst in last (6 sc and 1 slst)











FO and weave in ends, attach cherry and enjoy your cute little cupcake!

Sunday, March 24, 2013

Pattern: Moss Stitch Fingerless Gloves


Here in Missouri, we're not done with winter yet! Well, maybe mentally but there's still snow on the ground! Inspired by a knit version my cousin shared with me from Etsy, these cute crocheted gloves are perfect for texting, holding on to the steering wheel without freezing your palms off, or just keeping your hands warm.
 
 
Materials: 
  • size G hook
  • size I hook
  • worsted weight yarn
  • two buttons
  • scissors
  • darning needle 
  • stitch marker

Stitches/ Abbreviations Used (American terms):
  • ch - chain
  • sc - single crochet
  • sk - skip
  • slst - slip stitch
  • fo - finish off
Notes: 
  • try your glove on as you go to ensure it fits
  • you will switch off between placing your marker in the first sc and first ch space after each round
  • unless a number of stitches is specified, only skip/ chain/ single crochet one (i.e. *sc, ch, sk*)

Cuff - size G hook
 
ch 8
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and each across, ch 1, turn
Row 2-28: ch 1, sc across, turn

Fold your cuff in half and sc the ends together. Flip the cuff right side out. DO NOT FINISH OFF!

 
Left glove - size I hook
 
Working around the edge of your cuff...

Rnd 1: sc in first available st and in next 3, 2sc, *sc in 4, 2sc* for a total of 5 sets, sc in last 3 sts, join with a slst to first sc
Rnd 2: ch 1, sk next sc, sc, place marker in ch 1 space just created, *ch 1, sk 1, sc* around. sc in last sc, ch 1, sc in ch 1 space/ where your marker is
Rnds 3-5: *ch 1, sc in next ch 1 space* around (this is the moss/ granite stitch)
Rnd 6: *sc, ch, sk* 3 times, ch 6, sk 3 ch 1 spaces, *sc, ch, sk* 11 times
Rnd 7: *sc, ch, sk* until you reach ch 7 space, *sc, ch, sk* 4 times in the back loop of ch 7, *sc, ch, sk* in remaining
Rnds 8-12: Repeat RND 3
Rnd 13: *sc in 2, sc2tog* in every ch and sc (you're not going to sc in every ch space alone like before, you will sc in every sc and ch), sk last, join with a slst to marked stitch
FO and weave in ends.

 
Right glove - size I hook
 
Rnds 1-5: Repeat as for left glove
Rnd 6: *sc, ch, sk* 11 times, ch 6, sk 3 ch 1 spaces, *sc, ch, sk* 3 times
Rnds 7-13: Repeat as for left glove 
FO and weave in ends.

 
Strap - using G hook
 
ch 18
Row 1: sc in a ch of your choosing to make a loop large enough for your button to fit through, sc in remaining, turn
Row 2: ch, sk, sc in each until bottom loop, sc the number of skipped ch sts from ROW 1 into the loop, sc down the side of the fondation ch, slst in last sc
FO and weave in ends. Sew to glove as pictured below.

Fold your glove in half so that the thumb hole is even on both sides (like it would be when you wear it). Sew the button on the outside, furthest from your thumb on the cuff, right below the row that joins the body of the glove to the cuff. Loop your strap around the button and sew the end of the strap underneath the thumb hole (see photo for clarification). Enjoy your gloves!


Saturday, February 23, 2013

Pattern: Bunny Rabbit


Materials:
  • size G hook 
  • worsted weight yarn
  • polyfil
  • safety eyes
  • embroidery thread or sock yarn
  • scissors
  • darning needle
  • stitch marker

Stitches/ Abbreviations Used (American terms):
  • magic ring
  • ch - chain
  • sc - single crochet
  • sc2tog - single crochet 2 together
  • slst - slip stitch
  • fo - finish off
 
Notes: 
  • rounds are worked in a spiral, do not join after each round
  • place a stitch marker at the end of every round, moving it every time you complete a round 
  • assemble as shown







_______________________________________________

Head

rnd 1: sc 6 in a magic ring
rnd 2: 2sc in each around
rnd 3: *sc, 2sc* around
rnd 4: *sc in 2, 2sc* around
rnd 5: *sc in 3, 2sc* around
rnds 6-11: sc in each around
rnd 12: *sc in 3, sc2tog* around
rnd 13: *sc in 2, sc2tog* around (stuff the head, add the eyes, and embroider the nose and mouth)
rnd 14: *sc, sc2tog* around
rnd 15: sc2tog around

FO and weave in ends.
_______________________________________________

Ears - make 2

rnd 1: sc 6 in a magic ring
rnds 2-3: sc in each around
rnd 4: *sc, 2sc* around
rnds 5-6: sc in each around
rnd 7: *sc in 2, 2sc* around
rnds 8-9: sc in each around
rnd 10: *sc in 3, 2sc* around
rnds 11-12: sc in each around
rnd 13: *sc in 3, sc2tog* around
rnds 14-15: sc in each around
rnd 16: *sc in 2, sc2tog* around
rnds 17-20: sc in each around

FO leaving a long tail for sewing ears to head, and leave unstuffed (or stuff, if you'd like, it's up to you).
_______________________________________________

Body - worked from bottom to top

rnd 1: sc 6 in a magic ring
rnd 2: 2sc in each around
rnd 3: *sc, 2sc* around
rnd 4: *sc in 2, 2sc* around
rnd 5: *sc in 3, 2sc* around
rnds 6-11: sc in each around
rnd 12: *sc in 3, sc2tog* around
rnd 13: sc in each around
rnd 14: *sc in 2, sc2tog* around
rnd 15-16: sc in each around
rnd 17: *sc, sc2tog* around
rnds 18-19: sc in each around

FO leaving a long tail for sewing body to head, and stuff body.
_______________________________________________

Arms - make 2

rnd 1: sc 6 in a magic ring
rnd 2: *sc, 2sc* around
rnds 3-5: sc in each around
rnd 6: *sc, sc2tog* around
rnds 7-15: sc in each around

FO leaving a long tail for sewing arms to body, and stuff arms.
_______________________________________________

Legs - make 2

rnd 1: sc 6 in a magic ring
rnd 2: 2sc in each around
rnds 3-6: sc in each around
rnd 7: *sc in 2, sc2tog* around
rnds 8-20: sc in each around

FO leaving a long tail for sewing legs to body, and stuff legs.
_______________________________________________

Tail

rnd 1: sc 6 in a magic ring
rnd 2: 2sc in each around
rnds 3-5: sc in each around
rnd 6: sc2tog around

FO leaving a long tail for sewing tail to back of body, and stuff tail lightly.

Wednesday, February 13, 2013

Pattern: Bobble Beard

A few months ago, I was requested one of the lovely bearded beanies. I'd seen them around and thought they were super fun but had never tried making one. After looking around for a decent, free beard pattern and having no such luck, I took it upon myself to make an easy-to-follow pattern.


Materials:
  • size G hook for women
  • size H hook for men
  • worsted weight yarn
  • scissors
  • darning needle

Stitches/ Abbreviations Used (American terms):
  • Bobble stitch: *yo, insert hook into st, pull up a loop* 3 or 4 times, whichever you perfer. You will have 7 or 9 loops on hook, yo and pull through all loops.
  • ch - chain 
  • sc - single crochet
  • sk - skip
  • slst - slip stitch
  • fo - finish off

Notes: 
  • repeat everything inside the asterisks (**) 
  • one size fits most teens/ adults 

The Pattern:

Row 1: ch 33, sc in 2nd from hook and in each across, ch 1, turn
Row 2: *bobble, sc* across, ch 1, turn (you should have 16 bobble stitches)
Row 3: sc for 6 bobbles (or 12 sc), sk 4 bobbles (or 8 sc), ch 12, sc for 6 bobbles (or 12 sc), ch 1, turn
Row 4: *bobble, sc* until ch 12 space, *bobble, sk next, sc* 4 times, *bobble, sc* across, ch 1, turn
Row 5: sc in each st across, ch 1, turn
Repeat rows 2 and 5 until you have a total of five bobble stitch rows (end with row 2)


For the side straps, ch enough to go over your ears (12-15) and slst to the top of your beard/ first row. slst across the top. ch the same amount as before (12-15) and slst to the bottom of the beard/ end row. FO and weave in ends.

Thursday, February 7, 2013

Tutorial: Sculpey Button Mold



This tutorial will show you how to make molds out of Sculpey. I'm using buttons for my molds because I am constantly running out of my favorite buttons but you can use just about anything with texture (plants, doll faces, buttons, fabric, stamps, etc.)

Materials:
  • textured buttons 
  • Sculpey
  • clay gloss/ clear nail polish
  • oven
Tips: 
  • try to avoid buttons with holes that your clay can get stuck in. You don't want to ruin your buttons! 
  • you can use corn starch to lightly dust your buttons before pressing them into the clay
  • DO NOT BAKE YOUR BUTTONS! Remove them from the clay before baking
  • don't forget to poke holes in your buttons for threading!
Directions:
Condition a small bit of clay and flatten it out to be slightly bigger than your button of choice.







 Take your button and press it firmly into your clay. You may not want to use really flat or thin buttons for this as they may break or get stuck in your clay.






Carefully remove your button from the clay. After you've made all of your button molds, bake them according to the Sculpey package.







 When your buttons are finished baking, let them cool completely. After cooling, cover them with a thin coat of gloss and allow to dry. Now you have molds for your own buttons!


Below are some baked molds and buttons I made using the molds.